19km morth-east from Tissamaharama, Kataragama is Sri Lankas second most sacred place of pilgrimage, rivalling Adams Peak in its appeal to the devout. Just like Adams Peak, it attracts Sri Lankan Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims year round and is visited by Christians too.

The Main Devale holds 3 services daily. Around 5 am at dawn, 11 am just before midday and about 7 pm at nightfall. All services equally draw in the crowds.

The history of Kataragama goes back to pre Christian era and both Buddhist and Hindu literature have identified this place in various ways. According to chronicles some of the people who accompanied Vijaya from India in 543 BC established a village called Kajara-Gama which is thought to be current Kataragama.

Kataragama today is a small town surrounded by seven low, conical hills, with clean, tree lined roads with rows of stalls selling garlands & fruit platters comprising coconut, mango, watermelon, banana and several others. The town is separated by the River Menik Ganga ("River of Gems") with Sacred Precinct to the north, an area of beautiful parkland overrun by Grey Langur monkeys.

A short walk from the car park is the river Menik Ganga. Across the bridge steps lead down to the river which is quite shallow in places. Its a nice & easy river for a leisurely bath (village style) anytime during the day with large trees on the banks providing plenty of shade. Across the bridge is the main temple complex. The 300m wide avenue lined with trees leads to the ancient temple of the deity.

According to the Buddhists, Kataragama is one of the 16 places visited by Buddha (solos maha stana) during his 3 visits to Sri Lanka.

To Hindus, Kataragama is the dwelling place of the Hindu war lord Skanda, but the deity of Kataragama has many names, among them Kartikeya, Kartikama Murugan, Karthika Kumara, Shuba, Mahasena, Devasena, Kadira, Agnibhuwa, Shanmukha, Subramanya and Kande Yaka. The god is said to have come to the island to fight an enemy of the gods & having defeated the demon Tharaka at Velapura, todays Kalutara, settled down at Kataragama.

For Islamists, Kataragama is associated with Al-Khidr meanning “The Green (one)”, though Muslim commentators are not agreed on who he exactly was. Some say he is a prophet while others say he is a wali meaning one who is close to God or saint.

The Veddas (aka Wannniye Aetto) call him the Kande Yaka ( The spirit of the mountain) and claims to have been visiting Kataragama for the last thousands of years. They are believed be the indigenous people of the country who walked to the island thousands of years ago when from the Indian sub continent when Sri Lanka was connected to India over the Adams bridge.

Both Hindu and Buddhist communities believe that the god of Kataragama has the power to intervene benevolently in their affairs, and thousands visit the shrine each year to appeal for divine aid. On arrival, pilgrims wash in the cleansing water of the Menik Ganga, crowding the river bank. Each throws a coconut to the stony ground, hoping for it to split auspiciously open - a good omen. Unusually, Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims join in the procession following the yantra (symbol) of the deity as it is paraded from temple to temple.

Temple Complex

The first building is the Ul-Khizr that houses the tombs of Muslim saints from Kyrgyzstan & India. It is a beautiful small mosque with coloured tile work & wooden lintels.

Next to the Muslim Ul- Khizar is Hindu temple of God Shiva. Continuing up the main avenue, passing a string of minor shrines, to reach the main shrine, the Maha Devale.

The main courtyard is surrounded by an impressive wall decorated with elephants, and is entered through an ornate metal gate. The wall as well as the gate are decorated with peacock, a symbol of the deity of Kataragama.

The Main Shrine

Inside are three main shrines. Directly opposite the entrance gate is the principal shrine, that of God Kataragama, a simple quadrangular white building with carved wooden doors & walls decorated with pink lotuses, green Bo leaves & elephants. The shrine is believed to contain the spear of the multi-visaged, 12-armed warrior deity.

The other two shrines are dedicated to God Vishnu, one of the supreme Hindu deities, & the elephant-headed God Ganesha, the god of prosperity & wisdom. To the side of three shrines stand two fine Bo trees, the larger surrounded by golden rails & an elephant wall.

Kirivehera

Beyond the Maha Devale is a meeting hall on the north side of the square. From the east gate, a Tulip tree avenue leads 500m past further lines of stalls selling lotus flowers to the Kiri Vehera dating from 1 BC. It is a milk white large stupa with a well maintained & peaceful courtyard. The temple elephant is often seen shackled to the trees here, being fed a copious diet of palm leaves. Its only unusual feature being the two sets of square walls which enclose it. A modern statue of King Dutugamunu stands behind the dagoba.

Vadihitikanda

While Kataragama is the domain of the benevolent god, it is believed the precise abode of the god is a mountain called Vedihitikanda (meaning mountain where the god settled in) situated 5km from the town of Kataragama. Walking up to the summit of the mountain is tough yet enjoyable.

Sella Kataragama

Located 5km from Kataragama is the small town of Sella Kataragama. The tree lined, well sheltered road make the drive pleasant. Sella Kataragama is the place where god Kataragama first met his first consort Valli Amma.

Archeological Museum

Next to the Maha Devale, the modest Archeological Museum features Buddha statues, moonstones, ancient inscriptions, huge fiberglass replicas of religious sculptors from various places in the island, along with other bits of religious statuary & paraphernalia-conch shells, stone figurines.

Legend & History

The current Kataragama Devale is thought to be built by the King Dutuganumu (161-131 BC) after defeating Elara, the Dravidian invader. It is a plain building void of decorations. There are no figures of gods or idols in the building. There is only a curtain with a painting of god Kataragama sitting on his official vehicle, the peacock and with his two consorts Valli Amma and Thevani Amma beside. Behind this curtain is the holiest object which is said to be a Yanthra in a relic container. Only the two highest priests are ever allowed to access it, the maha-kapurala and the devini-kapurala. What it looks like and what kind of yanthra itself is totally unknown to others. Some say this is supposedly a gold leaf and the yantra represent a six pointed star which is the symbol of god Kataragama.

Some legends consider the Katragama deity as the powerful regional warrior king Mahasena who ruled the area when the Buddha made his 3rd visit to Sri Lanka in the 8th year of his enlightenment (580 BC) . This warrior king took to Buddhism after meeting the Buddha and was elevated to a deity by the community after his death. It is believed that Kiri Vehera has been built by him on the place that the Buddha meditated. Some believe that the Kiri Vehera was built by the Ksastriyas who accompanied King Vijaya (the first descendent of the Sinhalese race) or by prince Aggabodhi, King Devanampiyatissas (250-210 BC) younger brothers son who ruled Magama during 3rd century BC. It is said that the rulers in this area were present at the ceremonial planting of the Sri Maha Bodhi sapling at Anuradhapura at the invitation of the King Devanmpiyathissa (250-210 BC). Later one of the first eight saplings of this tree was planted in Kataragama which is worshipped up to date by all Buddhists.

According to the legend, victorious King Dutugamunu (161-137 BC) built the original shrine following his series of long battles against the mighty forces of Dravidian invader, Elara, at Anuradhapura. The legend is that God Kataragama helped King Dutugamunus formidable Sinhalese army to cross the River Menik, which would have been an unassailable mighty river fed by dense rain forest a couple of millennium ago. The history is (Mahawamsa) King Dutugamunus army was commanded by ten mighty warriors, Nandhimitta, Suranimala, Mahasona, Gothaimbara, Theraputtabhaya (formerly a Buddhist monk, he gave up the Buddhist order for the sole purpose of saving the Sinhalese & Buddhism from the marauding Dravidian invaders), Bharana, Velusumana, Khanjadeva, Phussadeva & Labhiyavasaba, all of them of superhuman strength & courage sans Achilles heel. Those ten mighty ambidextrous warriors of great strength & courage were ably assisted by great battle elephants. Foremost in strength, beauty, shape & the qualities of courage & swiftness & of mighty size of body was the royal elephant Kandula, who broke open the mighty door of impregnable Dravidian fortress at Vijithapura (city of victory), Anuradhapura.

Kataragama Festival

Kataragama Esala Maha Perahera is one of the main events of the Kataragama Calender. This ritualistic possession is held on the Esala Full moon Poya Day which falls on July – August, held around the Kandy Esala Perahera pageant. This Perahera is unique in the way it is held and the procession itself. One interesting fact is that the Perahera festival officially begins by the flag hoisting ceremony at the Islamic mosque in Kataragama. The festival is coloured by fire walking ceremonies, Kavadi Dances and self mutilating sacrifices by devotees. These devotees perform certain penances by piercing their tongues, cheeks and others attaching iron hooks to their backs and pulling heavy loads.

The town is at its best - bold, bright & busiest - during the Kataragama festival. A nights stay provides the opportunity to enjoy the sight of the puja (ritual offerings) in a leisurely manner and you may also imbibe some of the towns backwater charm & laid-back rural pace.

Pada Yatra (The Long walk to Kataragama)

Forty-five days prior to the beginning of annual Kataragama Festival on the Esala poya (full moon), groups of devotees embark on the pilgrimage called Pada Yatra to Kataragama walking the length of Sri Lanka. The route follows the east coast from the Jaffna peninsula via Trincomalee & Batticaloa to Okanda, then through Yala East & Yala West ( Ruhuna Yala National Park ) to Kataragama. Its an arduous trip, & the pilgrims rely on the hospitality of the communities & temples they pass for their food & lodging. The pilgrims believe they are walking in the steps of the god Kataragama.

Thaipusam Festival

Conch shells blow, trumpets blare & drums beat out as voices rise in unison to a chorus of chant of “Haro Hara”; elephants parade, drummers drum & vows are made. Some devotees seeking favours demonstrate their devotion to the god by performing extraordinary acts of penance & self-mortification: tongues & cheeks are transfixed by spikes, or butchers hooks penetrating their skin. Some devotees are suspended up in the air by an array of hooks & mounted on ox-driven carts swing forth & backwards freely; others roll half naked over the hot sands near the temple. Parades of pilgrims take part in vibrant & vigorous Kavadi (peacock) dance: men, women & children holding decorated semi circular red arches made of wood & paper above their heads dance to the beat of drummers & trumpeters.

The fire-walkers who had prepared themselves for the festival by acts of fast, meditate & pray for the last few weeks, at the end of the festival, take a ritual bath in the Menik Ganga & pay homage to the god Kataragama at the Maha Devale. Then they step out onto the glowing beds of red-hot-cinders-while the audience cries out encouragement.

The festival ends with the ceremony of water cutting: the waters of the Menik Ganga are cut with a sword, at the moment of the full moon, symbolizes the separation of pure from impure & the invocations of rain for the harvest.

Although Kataragama Pilgrimage season reaches its peak on this annual perahera, it is a place where people go to any time of the year.

Kataragama Related references